Our Medieval White Christmas in Tallinn

Have you ever dreamed of a Christmas unlike anything you have had before? We have, and that is how this most extraordinary Tallinn Christmas adventure started. As Australians, we often melt in extreme heat through Christmas; we have long dreamed of a white Christmas and the Christmas markets of Europe. We decided 2023 was the year we could finally make it happen. Phil was determined to find the city with the highest chance in Europe for a white Christmas and set his eyes on Tallinn, Estonia. But we never dreamed of just how special this Christmas would turn out to be. It did not take long for us to become aware of the theme woven into our Christmas. Our medieval White Christmas.

Tallinn is the capital of Estonia, located on the Baltic Sea. Making most of the lists for places in Europe for a white Christmas, and with the Medieval charm of the old town, Tallinn has the perfect combination for a medieval white Christmas.

History of Tallinn

Tallinn has a history dating back to the 2nd millennium, but its heyday was during the 16th century. Did you know Tallinn was not always known as Tallinn? It was once called Reval. During this time, Reval cemented itself as a trade centre in the Baltics. Today, many original buildings and landmarks date back to when Reval grew from a few hundred to a few thousand inhabitants in a few short years, allowing you to get immersed in history in a fun and educational way.

The name Reval dates to the 1200s and comes from the king’s encounter with a deer. There are many differing accounts around the actual event, but three things are consistent. One, the King or his courtiers were pursuing the deer; two, the deer jumped off the cliff rather than be captured; and third, the king named the place Reval, which translates to Deer-Fall, and thus, this event gave this captured Nordic land its new name.

Helpful Info to know before you head to Tallinn

Currency

€ is used throughout Estonia

The average daily cost for a moderate budget will be around €95 per person.

For a week for a couple, you would have a comfortable visit for around €1,329.

*Estimates are from the website “Budget your Trip.” I use this site for all my budget estimates for trips (not Affiliated).

While snow is not guaranteed, there’s a good chance of snow in Tallinn around Christmas. The chance of snow or rain in December is average, averaging around 33mm over 15 days. During December, snowfall is most likely. There is a  77% to 82% snowfall this month, which is among the highest of the year.

Language

Estonian is a Finnic language and the official language of Estonia. Most Estonians are at least Bi-lingual, so communicating is easy.

Here are a few words to help you with your communication

Hello – Tere

Goodbye – Hüvasti

Please –  Palun

Thank you – Aitäh

Christmas traditions in Estonia

Like in other Nordic countries, Estonia celebrates Christmas on Christmas Eve. Advent can be a big part of Christmas, with people buying Advent calendars and lighting Advent candles. Families go to church on Christmas Eve.

A traditional Estonian Christmas dinner consists of blood sausage, roasted potatoes, pork, lingonberry sauce and sauerkraut. Today, you will find this and many other foods on the table on Christmas Eve.

We were surprised at how much there was to do in the old town over the 24th and 25th of December.

Why we themed our Christmas Medieval

Today, Tallinn is one of the few places in Europe that have come through the 20th century relatively intact. Many of the buildings in the old square date back to Medieval times and have stood the test of time. There is an understated charm about the imperfect streets and grand buildings. All the pictures and YouTube videos we watched helped direct us to what became the most magical and unique Christmas experience we have had in years.

We had three nights in the city, and with eager anticipation, we booked a walking tour, a medieval Christmas feast and then the old town to explore. In the following part of this post, I will focus on the activities and places we visited over Christmas.

The Tales of Reval Walking tour

This amazing tip-based walking tour contains fun stories, audience participation and education. The tour is 1.15 in winter and a bit longer in warmer months. As I said above, Tallinn was originally known as Reval, and the tour is all about that medieval period and the city’s growth and success. We were excited to find out we could do the tour on Christmas Eve, and this set us up for a Christmas we would not forget. Walking the streets of the Olde Town, our guide shared stories straight from the page’s history; he brought buildings and features like the well to life, all under the guise of a walking tour, which, in my opinion, is not to be missed.

Here is the link to the part of the video that shares our time on the walk.

Want to learn more or book your magical walking tour in Tallinn? Here is their website link (not Affiliated).

Old Hansa Medieval Restaurant with its Christmas banquet.

When researching Tallinn, it does not take long to be introduced to Olde Hansa, a medieval-themed restaurant in the heart of the old town. We knew we wanted to include this experience in our visit, and when we discovered they had a Christmas menu and were open on Christmas Eve, we had to include it in our itinerary.

Olde Hansa was three old storehouses; in the mid-1650, after one of the buildings collapsed, it was rebuilt, and then they were converted into one baroque-style building. Today, it is a three-story step back in medieval times. We were on the third floor, and you enjoyed the warm candle-lit room.

Our meal was a three-course, 2-hour extravaganza on Christmas Eve. The staff were amazing and stayed in character, adding to the medieval feel. During the later part of the meal, some musicians came through and played medieval instruments and music from that time.

Located: Vana turg 1, 10140 Tallinn, Estonia

Cost: Check out the menu here

Open Times:

Sunday to Thursday 12 PM – 11 PM

Friday and Saturday 12 PM – 12 AM

Here is the footage from our Christmas Feast Experience at Olde Hansa.

If you need to know more, check out their website (not Affiliated).

Walking the old town and its walls

Christmas Day, we walked the longest part of the old wall. You can climb several towers today; Tallinn once had 46 defence towers and approximately 4 kilometres of walls surrounding the olde town. There are still 26 towers and about 2 kilometres of walls in place today; you can explore some of them.

We found Helleman’s Tower open on Christmas day. You can access the tower by walking 200 metres off the wall, and you also have access to Munkadetagus Tower.

Located: Muyurivahe Street 48, Kesklinna district, Tallinn

Cost: €4

Open Daily: 11:00 – 17:00

Walking the wall was fun; we explored the Hellemann Tower in this part of the video (not Affiliated).

Other things that made our Christmas Special

Gingerbread Mania

Since 2006, the Gingerbread Mania exhibit has been a popular event on Tallinn’s Christmas Calendar. Each year, there is a different theme; this year, the theme was film. The only rule is everything is made of GIngerbread. Artists come for all creative medians; there are architects, designers, ceramicists and visual artists, making it a visual feast.

This was a quick stop for us. We arrived earlier in the day, and the number of visitors was low, but it grew in the 25 minutes we were there.

Are curious to see the offerings of 2023. Here is the link to that section of our video.

Their website will give you all you need to know to plan a visit (not Affiliated).

Located: Pärnu mnt 6, 10140 Tallinn Estonia

Cost: € 3.50

Open Times:

Every day from 11.00 am to 6.00 pm
December 24th  11.00 – 15.00
December  31st. 11.00-15.00
Closed on the 01th of January 2024

Visiting churches

There are many Churches with a long history still in operation today, and as visitors, we can visit them. During our time in Tallinn, we had a couple we wanted to visit and had hoped to attend a service, but because of our Christmas Eve dinner reservation, we missed out on attending a service.

As far as our visiting churches, we managed to go inside a few, and here is a list and, in some cases, things we found that made our visit special. There is so much diversity in the Churches, not just from a denominational point of view, but there was so much tangible history.

Church of the Holy Ghost

The Church of the Holy Spirit, also known as The Church of the Holy Ghost, is a medieval Lutheran church. It was documented for the first time in 1319 and was the first church to hold services in Estonian.

We did not plan on visiting this church but ended up in there looking for a toilet. We had to pay a small €2 fee to enter but had timed it as a choir performance on Christmas Eve. After enjoying the first song, we left as lunch was needed. The voices were beautiful, and it would have been lovely to take in more, but it was not something we had planned time for.

In researching helpful information, I read that the organ died a few days after our visit, so don’t expect to hear it, at least for the first half of 2024.

Located:  Pühavaimu 2, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia  Cost: No fee is listed on the website, but I would be prepared to pay the €2 fee to enter.  Open Times: The church is open for tourists from Monday to Friday from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and Saturdays from 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.

St Mary’s Cathedral (Toomkirik)

The Cathedral of Saint Mary the Virgin, also known as Dome Church, is located on Toompea Hill. Originally established by Danes in the 13th century, it is one of the oldest churches in mainland Estonia. The church is the only building in Toompea which survived a 17th-century fire.

My Sister and I stumbled across this church while exploring the upper town. As we entered, we caught the end of an organ recital. I must say the interior of this church was one of the most unique I have seen.

Located: Toom-Kooli 6, 10130 Tallinn, Estonia, Cost: €2 fee, Open Times: closed Monday, Tuesday – Sunday, 10 am – 4 pm

Saint Nicholas’ Orthodox Church

St. Nicholas Orthodox Church is an Orthodox church built between 1820 and 1827.

We visited the church on Christmas day. This was a beautiful building and the first Orthodox church I had visited. It was refreshing to see a different layout and how other denominations worship. Photos are not allowed in the church, so I would recommend a quick drop-in.

Located at Vene 24, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia, it is Open Monday through Thursday from 10 am to 3 pm, Friday from 10 am to 6 pm, Saturday from 9 am to 7 pm, and Sunday from 9 am to 3 pm.

St. Peter and St. Paul’s Cathedral

St. Peter and St. Paul’s Cathedral is the cathedral church of the Roman Catholic Apostolic Administration of Estonia. The church was opened in 1844, and today’s neoclassical façade and two low, stumpy towers were added in 1924.

We walked into a service in progress, and seeing the congregation sharing in communion was lovely. Outside the building was a beautiful Nativity, inviting all to remember Jesus on Christmas day.

Located: Vene 18, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia, open 12 pm-5 pm daily

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

A richly decorated Russian Orthodox church was built to serve a growing faith community in the late 1800s. By the 1920s, the people of Tallinn were lobbying and winning to get it demolished, but a lack of funds saved this beautiful building.  In the 1960s, it was saved from being repurposed into a planetarium.

Located:  Tornimäe 2, 15010 Tallinn, open Sunday – Friday 8 am – 6 pm, Saturday 8 am – 7 pm

St Olaf’s Church

With a history dating back to 1219, after many disasters and fires through the centuries, the mid-1950s saw the church being transferred to the United Evangelical Christian-Baptist. Today, St Olaf stands proudly in the Old Town; you can check out the building once called “Naked Gothic” from the outside, but it is only open Sunday from 9.30 am – 2 pm (guessing it is during service time).

We had planned to attend for Christmas, but as I said, it conflicted with our dinner reservation.

Walking the streets of the upper old town and the viewing points

You can be fooled into thinking all the good sites are in and around the “Old Town”, but going up to the Upper Town will give you endless viewpoints and places to explore. I spent a few hours wandering around, constantly surprised by what I was to find. We visited three viewpoints looking out over Modern Tallinn and the Baltic Sea. This area is outside the City wall; you can get access to part of the wall through the

Near Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, you will find the Toompea Castle. Riigikogu and Toompea Castle are open to visitors all year round. Visiting sessions, Toompea Castle and exhibitions are free for those interested.

Eating delicious food in Tallinn

Like any capital city, you are not shy about your food choice; from Michelin-star restaurants to street food, you will find it all. One of the keys is looking for a place that uses local, seasonal fare. There is a  good choice of Estonian fare and other close influences in the old town.

We shared that we ate at Olde Hansa, but they are not the only medieval restaurant in the old town; there is also III Draakon, Raekoja plats, and 10146 Tallinn. You may visit places with a medieval feel but not necessarily the full experience. There are loads of cafes and bars to enjoy; take your time. We saw a couple of places that screamed Touristy, and one was quite pushy at the top of the square. We enjoyed most of the places we visited; the ones we didn’t enjoy were the more touristy, but the atmosphere was great.

Here is a list and rating of the places we visited

Olde Hansa – we enjoy the Christmas feast, 5/5

Restaurant Troika – great warming Slavic food on the town Square 4/5

Caffee Centrale –  we just had a coffee break 4/5

Old Estonia – Great Lunch Option on the Town Square 4/5

Kehrwieder Saiakang Chocolaterie was our least favourite stop. We had a quick light snack after the Tales of Reval tour. 3/5

Pub with no Name –  we went there for a pre-dinner drink 4/5

Visiting the old town Christmas Markets

The old town square is home to the modern Christmas Markets. Today’s version of the market started in 2006, and in 2019, they were named the best Christmas market in Europe. Tallinn’s Christmas history goes back to 1441, when the Brotherhood of the Blackheads, a merchant guild, erected the first public Christmas Tree. As it is today, the original tree took centre stage in the main square. Today, Tallinn’s beautiful Christmas tree is at the heart of the markets, with Stalls fanning out like spokes on a wheel.

The markets are home to around 50 stalls, where you can indulge in hot drinks like hot glög, hot chocolate, and lots of food; when looking for non-food, you will find plenty to tempt you with clothes, wooden decorations and local souvenirs.

Located: Old Town Square

Raekoja plats 8-9, 10146 Tallinn, Estonia

Cost: Free to enter. Stalls vary in price.

Opens Times:

1st December  –  7th January each year

Open 10 am -8 pm each day

Our Accommodation in Tallinn

My sister was travelling with us, so we needed a place to accommodate the three of us with real beds. We found an apartment just a few minutes walk from the town Square. This place was really spacious, had a sauna, washing Machine and all the creature comforts of home. The “City-central flat with sauna” was just what we needed and did not break the bank. Entry was in a secure courtyard and an easy walk from any part of the Old Town.

Located:  1 Väike-Karja, Tallinn City-Centre, 10140 Tallinn, Estonia

Cost: € 387 (for three nights)

Open Times: Check-in is after 3 pm

Our only regret about our time in Tallinn is that it was too short. There is so much more to see, but for now, we will always have our memories of visiting this amazing city and being blessed with one of the most unique Christmases we have ever had.

YouTube

If you would like to see the video in its entirety, here is the link

5 European Destination Overviews for 2023

*The link to accommodation is an Affiliate Link; if you book through this Link, I could earn a small commission.