Driving the Waterfall Way

Why We Stayed in Armidale & Dorrigo

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A few years ago we’d heard about the Waterfall Way. It is an amazing 185-kilometre stretch of road that travels from Armidale to the coast, or the coast to Armidale, depending on which direction you choose. It’s a beautiful link between inland New South Wales and the coast.

We both love waterfalls and watching water tumble over rocks, no matter how high the drop may be. Even if it’s just a small rapid, there’s something amazing about moving water. So this little adventure had been sitting on our bucket list for quite a while. When we planned our New South Wales road trip, it made perfect sense to include it, seeing as we were starting inland and wanted to finish on the coast.

The Waterfall Way is a scenic drive of around 185 kilometres stretching from Armidale to the coast. We finished our journey in Urunga and, along the way, discovered why this drive is so highly regarded. It passes through five national parks and is home to countless waterfalls, rainforest, spectacular lookouts and walking trails.

It feels like every time you drive around another bend, there’s the opportunity to stop and discover something amazing. Then, before you know it, you’ve left the rainforest behind and find yourself sitting on the beach or looking out across rolling waves on the coast.

For us, this trip wasn’t just about visiting the famous waterfalls. It was about the incredible variety of landscapes and experiences packed into one drive. We were excited to finally experience it for ourselves, not just to say we’d been there, but to truly soak it all in.

And I’ve got to tell you… It lived up to our expectations and so much more.

In this blog, we’ll share the places we discovered along the Waterfall Way, why we chose to split the journey over multiple days and two bases, and the experiences that made this one of our favourite scenic drives in New South Wales. Hopefully, it will help you plan your own Waterfall Way adventure.

 Watch the Journey

Prefer to watch? We explored the Waterfall Way over two videos, covering everything from Armidale’s waterfalls to Dorrigo National Park, Bellingen and Urunga.

▶️ Waterfall Way Part 1 – Armidale NSW: A Great Base for Exploring the Region

▶️ Waterfall Way Part 2 – If We Did the Waterfall Way Again, We’d Start in Dorrigo

What to Expect Along the Waterfall Way

The Waterfall Way is a scenic drive of around 185 kilometres that links Armidale with the coast. We travelled as far as Urunga, using it as our route from inland New South Wales to the ocean. While you’ll often see the Waterfall Way described as running between Armidale and Coffs Harbour, our journey finished in Urunga, where we continued exploring the beautiful Mid North Coast.

Along the way, the road passes through five national parks—Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, New England National Park, Cathedral Rock National Park, Dorrigo National Park and Bongil Bongil National Park. Together, they protect some of New South Wales’ most spectacular scenery, including ancient rainforests, deep gorges, waterfalls, rugged granite formations and breathtaking lookouts.

Some of the best-known attractions along the drive include Cathedral Rock National Park, Crystal Shower Falls, Dangar Falls, Dangar Gorge, the Dorrigo Rainforest Skywalk, Ebor Falls, Point Lookout and Wollomombi Falls. Whether you enjoy short walks, longer hikes, photography or simply taking in the scenery, there’s no shortage of places to stop and explore.

One of the things that appealed to us about the Waterfall Way was that it offered so much more than waterfalls. The more we researched, the more we realised that, with its constantly changing scenery, countless walking trails and lookouts, and charming towns worth exploring, it deserved far more than a quick drive through.

So we chose to spend five days exploring this part of New South Wales, using two separate bases so we could really slow down, experience as much as possible, and appreciate everything this beautiful region has to offer.

Our First Base – Armidale

We chose Armidale as our first base because it marks the beginning of the Waterfall Way. At first, we thought it would simply be a convenient place to stay while exploring the surrounding waterfalls. That quickly changed after I contacted the Armidale Visitor Information Centre.

The lovely staff there sent me a wealth of information about the region. When the package arrived, I was honestly a little overwhelmed by just how much there was to see and do. It became obvious that Armidale wasn’t just a place to park the van for a few nights – it was a destination in its own right.

In the end, we spent three nights based in Armidale, and it gave us enough time to explore many of the area’s highlights without feeling like we were constantly rushing.

Around Armidale

Petersons Winery

Petersons Winery is the only winery in the New England region and was a lovely way to begin our exploring. We sampled several of their wines, including varieties grown locally in the region. Our tasting was held inside the historic guest house rather than the tasting room, which gave the experience a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. The property also offers accommodation, making it a peaceful place to stay if you’re looking for something a little different.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Gostwyck Chapel & the Historic Shearing Shed

Just a short drive from the winery is the beautiful Gostwyck Chapel and the famous octagonal shearing shed. We admired the shearing shed from the roadside before stopping at the chapel.

Built by the Dangar family as a memorial to a family member lost during the First World War, the chapel is one of the most photographed buildings in the region. Although visitors can’t go inside, it’s a beautiful place to stop, particularly in autumn and spring when the vines surrounding the chapel are covered in colourful leaves.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

Armidale Township

Unfortunately, our day exploring Armidale coincided with some very wet weather, so we didn’t get to experience as much of the town itself as we would have liked.

For travellers, though, Armidale has everything you need to restock, including Coles, Aldi, Bunnings and plenty of other shops and services. It’s an excellent base if you’re travelling through the region.

Aboriginal Cultural Centre & Keeping Place

One of the highlights of our stay was the Aboriginal Cultural Centre & Keeping Place.

The centre features rotating exhibitions shared between several regional galleries, along with permanent displays that provide insight into the history and culture of the local Aboriginal people. The artwork on display during our visit was absolutely stunning, and the staff were incredibly welcoming and knowledgeable.

There is also a café on site, although it had closed by the time we arrived later in the afternoon.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Armidale Showground

We based ourselves at the Armidale Showground and found it to be an excellent place to stay.

Powered sites were $35 per night during our visit, with access to toilets, cold showers for non-self-contained travellers, a laundry and a camp kitchen. The sites were spacious and level, and it was only a short drive into town.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐☆

Our Waterfall Loop

Before heading out, it’s worth remembering that many of the waterfalls along the Waterfall Way are seasonal. How spectacular they are will depend on how much rain the region has received in the weeks leading up to your visit. We were fortunate enough to visit both before and after heavy rain, so we saw first-hand just how dramatically the waterfalls can change in only a day or two.

Gara Gorge

Gara Gorge, located within Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, was probably the attraction we were looking forward to the most, but surprisingly it ended up being our least favourite.

The main walk is around 6 kilometres return, with a longer loop option passing the historic hydro-electric scheme ruins. The track is relatively easy, and there are two excellent picnic areas – Blue Hole Picnic Area and Threlfall Picnic Area – making it a lovely place to spend a few hours, even if you don’t complete the full walk.

For us, though, the walk itself didn’t quite live up to our expectations. If time was limited, this would probably be the first attraction we’d leave off our itinerary.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐☆☆☆

Bakers Creek Falls

Bakers Creek Falls was our first waterfall stop along the loop drive.

Unfortunately, conditions were quite dry during our visit, so the falls weren’t flowing particularly well. Even so, it’s an easy stop and worth pulling over if you’re passing by.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐☆☆

Wollomombi Falls & Chandler Falls

Wollomombi Falls is one of the icons of the Waterfall Way, and we actually visited twice.

Our first visit was before heavy rain arrived, when Wollomombi Falls was flowing well, but Chandler Falls wasn’t as impressive. Returning after the rain completely changed the scene, with both waterfalls putting on a spectacular display.

There are several walking options here, ranging from short, easy strolls to longer walks if you have more time. We also stopped at Edgars Lookout, which offers a completely different perspective across the spectacular Chandler Gorge rather than looking directly at the waterfalls. The picnic facilities and variety of walks make this one of the easiest places to spend anything from 20 minutes to a couple of hours.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Point Lookout

Point Lookout is one of the best-known lookouts along the Waterfall Way.

Unfortunately, we arrived in thick cloud and were greeted with a complete whiteout, so we never actually saw the famous view. The walk from the car park is easy, but the drive out is fairly rough in places, particularly if you’re travelling in a standard two-wheel-drive vehicle.

Even though we missed the famous view, driving through the misty rainforest was still a memorable experience. Point Lookout has an excellent reputation, but our rating reflects what we experienced on the day rather than what you might see in perfect weather.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐☆☆☆

Ebor Falls

Ebor Falls was one of our favourite stops and is spectacular in its own right.

The upgraded walking paths make it very accessible, with sealed pathways linking the upper and lower falls and several viewing platforms. Most visitors should find the walks easy, and many sections are suitable for wheelchairs and mobility aids.

It’s easy to see why Ebor Falls is considered one of the highlights of the Waterfall Way, and if you have time, you can even walk into the village of Ebor for a bite to eat at Fusspots.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Food Stops

We stopped at Fusspots in Ebor for breakfast. Although they were only serving takeaway during our visit, we were still able to enjoy our bacon and egg rolls outside, and it was a great little stop.

On another day we visited Wollomombi Village for lunch. While we found the meal disappointing, the village itself was lovely. There’s a peaceful picnic area overlooking nearby paddocks, making it a nice place to stop if you’ve packed your own lunch or simply want a quiet break.

Would We Stay in Armidale Again?

Absolutely.

In fact, we feel like we only scratched the surface.

There were still several places on our list that we simply ran out of time to visit, including Saumarez Homestead. We had also hoped to visit Dangar Gorge, but unfortunately it was closed during our visit, so we’ll have to save that for next time. (Just don’t confuse Dangar Gorge near Armidale with Dangar Falls near Dorrigo—they’re completely different places!)

Rather than rushing through everything, we chose to leave those attractions for another visit.

As a base for exploring this end of the Waterfall Way, Armidale exceeded our expectations. We’d happily stay here again, revisit some of our favourite places and discover the attractions we missed the first time around.

🎥 Want to see these waterfalls for yourself?  Watch Armidale NSW: A Great Base for Exploring the Region on YouTube.

Our Second Base – Dorrigo

Dorrigo was the stop that took us completely by surprise.

When we were planning our trip, Dorrigo looked like the perfect base for exploring this end of the Waterfall Way. What we didn’t realise was that the town itself had so much character and that it would quickly become one of our favourite stops of the trip.

For our two-night stay, we chose Dangar Falls Lodge. We decided to camp off-grid, partly because we wanted to put our new solar setup to the test and partly because the unpowered sites were a little cheaper, costing $30 per night. It turned out to be a fantastic decision.

The campground sits right beside Dangar Falls, making it an ideal base for exploring the area. It also provides easy access to Dorrigo National Park, the Skywalk and many of the region’s best attractions.

Around Dorrigo

Dangar Falls Lodge

Dangar Falls Lodge was one of our favourite campgrounds of the trip. The peaceful surroundings, spacious sites and close proximity to the falls made it a wonderful place to stay.

Evenings at Dangar Falls Lodge were just as memorable as the days. Sitting around the campfire reflecting on everything we’d seen became one of our favourite parts of staying there.

Planning your own campfire evenings? Here’s some of the gear we use.

A bonus was the coffee van located at the campground, which operates on weekends. The coffee was excellent, and the croissant was a great way to start a day of exploring.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Dangar Falls

Being able to walk to Dangar Falls in just a few minutes was one of the highlights of staying here.

From the campground it was only a three or four-minute walk to the viewing platform overlooking the falls. For day visitors, the public car park is literally only a few steps from the main viewing platform, making this one of the easiest waterfalls along the Waterfall Way to visit.

The falls themselves are spectacular—a wide, powerful cascade dropping into a beautiful swimming hole below. If you’re happy to tackle a fairly steep 10-minute walk, a boardwalk and well-maintained path lead down to a lower viewing platform before continuing to the river below, where many people enjoy a swim during the warmer months.

There are also picnic facilities nearby, making this an easy place to spend anything from a quick stop to a leisurely couple of hours.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Exploring Dorrigo

Dorrigo itself is a lovely little country town with plenty of character. It has a relaxed feel, a couple of welcoming pubs and a beautiful park featuring one of the town’s most impressive trees, with a great picnic area nearby.

We stopped into the Dorrigo Woodfire Bakery for a pie and, of course, a vanilla slice. While the vanilla slice wasn’t one of our favourites of the trip, the staff were lovely, and we’d happily stop in again. Phil thought his pie was a little dry, although we did arrive quite late in the day, so we’d imagine they would be at their best earlier in the morning.

After my walk through Dorrigo National Park, we enjoyed lunch at the Dorrigo Hotel. The schnitzel was excellent, and the pub itself had a wonderful country atmosphere. Even though we didn’t eat in the public bar, we couldn’t help noticing the beautiful stained-glass windows above the bar, which added plenty of character to the building.

Dorrigo National Park

Dorrigo National Park is a destination in its own right and one of the highlights of the entire Waterfall Way.

Rainforest Skywalk

We started early at the Rainforest Skywalk, and it was the perfect introduction to Dorrigo National Park.

Before heading out to the Skywalk, take some time to visit the National Parks visitor centre. There’s a short introductory video, informative displays about the rainforest and local wildlife, helpful information for planning your visit, and a well-stocked gift shop.

The impressive cantilevered Skywalk extends out over the escarpment, providing sweeping views across the rainforest and valley below. With birdsong all around us and the morning light filtering through the trees, it was a beautiful way to begin the day and gave us a wonderful overview of the landscape before heading off on the walking trails.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Wonga Walk

While Phil headed back to the van, I decided to tackle the Wonga Walk on my own.

The loop is just over six kilometres and, during our visit, started from a temporary entrance due to maintenance work on part of the track. The temporary access was quite steep and even had a warning advising people with bad knees or ankles to avoid using that entrance. Hopefully that’s only temporary while the maintenance work is completed, but it’s worth keeping in mind if mobility is a concern.

I’m actually glad I ended up completing the whole walk because it became one of the highlights of the trip.

Along the way you’ll visit Crystal Shower Falls, famous for the path that allows you to walk behind the waterfall, and the spectacular Tristania Falls, which completely exceeded my expectations.

Although the track includes some uphill sections, it’s generally well maintained with long sections of boardwalk and plenty of places to stop and rest along the way. I’d definitely recommend taking some water and allowing yourself plenty of time to simply enjoy the rainforest.

If I were doing the walk again, I’d probably head off to the right from the start so the steeper climb came earlier rather than right at the end.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Food Stops

The weekend coffee van at Dangar Falls Lodge is well worth a visit for both coffee and breakfast.

The Dorrigo Hotel served a great pub meal, while the Dorrigo Woodfire Bakery was a pleasant stop for lunch and a sweet treat.

Heading Towards the Coast

One thing I’d read before our trip was that there were waterfalls right beside the road between Dorrigo and the coast. To be honest, I wondered whether they could really be that impressive.

I was wrong.

The first, Sherrard Falls, appeared before we had anywhere suitable to pull over with Connie, so unfortunately we had to admire it as we drove past.

Newell Falls

Newell Falls, however, was a completely different story. There’s a large pull-over area just east of the falls, making it easy to stop safely, and the waterfall is absolutely spectacular. Seeing it from the drone really showed just how impressive the drop is.

Our Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Bellingen

We stopped in Bellingen for what we’d probably call a second breakfast (yes, we’re wannabe hobbits!).

It took us a little while to find an open café on a Sunday morning, but once we did, it was well worth the effort. Bellingen has a relaxed, eclectic feel with beautiful old buildings and a real alternative, creative atmosphere that makes it enjoyable just to wander around.

Urunga

Our original plan in Urunga was to visit the famous boardwalk, but before we got there we stumbled across the local markets.

If you’re lucky enough to visit when they’re on, they’re well worth exploring. The market had a wonderful community feel, was much larger than we expected and was one of the nicest local markets we’d visited in quite a while.

Unfortunately, Connie’s size meant we couldn’t find suitable parking near the boardwalk, which shares a popular community picnic and recreation area. We’ll just have to save the boardwalk for our next visit.

Instead, we continued on to Hungry Head, where we enjoyed beautiful coastal views before heading towards our next destination.

Would We Stay in Dorrigo Again?

Without hesitation.

Dorrigo proved to be an outstanding base for exploring this section of the Waterfall Way. There are still places we’d like to visit, including the heritage rail collection and some of the other bushwalks nearby, so we’ll definitely be back.

If your main goal is to see spectacular waterfalls in a relatively small area, we’d probably choose Dorrigo over anywhere else on the Waterfall Way. Between Dangar Falls, Dorrigo National Park, Crystal Shower Falls, Tristania Falls, Newell Falls and the nearby coastal towns, there’s an incredible amount to see within a short drive.

If, on the other hand, you’re looking for a broader mix of experiences, including wineries, history, culture and waterfalls, Armidale makes a fantastic base. For us, spending time in both locations gave us the best of the Waterfall Way.

For us, Dorrigo wasn’t just a place to stay—it became one of the highlights of the entire journey.

Watch If We Did the Waterfall Way Again, We’d Start in Dorrigo to see Dorrigo National Park, Crystal Shower Falls, Newell Falls, Bellingen and Urunga.

Final Thoughts on the Waterfall Way

Looking back, we can absolutely understand why the Waterfall Way is considered one of New South Wales’ most scenic drives. Yes, there are incredible waterfalls, but for us it was the constantly changing scenery, the ancient rainforests, spectacular lookouts and the unexpected discoveries that made this journey so memorable.

Choosing to split our time between Armidale and Dorrigo was one of the best decisions we made. Each base gave us access to a different part of the Waterfall Way, and together they provided a much richer experience than simply driving the route in a day.

If you’re short on time and your main goal is to experience the waterfalls, we’d recommend basing yourself in Dorrigo. With so many of the region’s highlights close together, it’s the perfect base for a shorter visit. If you have four or five days, though, we’d encourage you to do what we did and split your stay between Armidale and Dorrigo. We honestly believe that’s the best way to experience the variety the Waterfall Way has to offer.

There are plenty of free and paid campgrounds, along with other accommodation options, dotted along the route, making it easy to slow down and explore at your own pace if you have the right vehicle. Give yourself time to take the walks, stop at the lookouts and enjoy the journey—you never know what unexpected place might become your favourite memory.

Have you driven the Waterfall Way, or is it still on your travel wish list? We’d love to hear your favourite stop, or the place you’re most looking forward to visiting.

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