The Beara Peninsula is considered the lesser-known of the Irish ring roads, so we decided to include it in our Itinerary. Everybody knows about the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula, but only a few know about the Beara Peninsula. We loved our day driving Beara Peninsula. In this post, we will share our experience of the drive and the Seven stops we made along the way.
One of the spectacular vantage points on the Beara Peninsula
When describing driving in Ireland, it can be defined as an experience. It is often noted that the roads are narrow, busy and stressful for those of us who need to get used to the roads. Even though much of this statement can be valid for the Beara Penisula, the lack of traffic makes it just that little bit more fun.
During my research of Ireland, it did not take long for me to decide that we had to include the Beara Peninsula in our trip. Everything I read and watched pointed out it was less busy than the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula. I knew Phil would enjoy the drive. Another factor was that there was so much to see and do and how spectacular it seemed to be. Our drive started an hour from Glengarriff, and we ended in Kenmare. Glengarriff Nature Reserve was the first stop, and our time ended at the Uragh Stone Circle, about 18 km from Kenmare if you want to see just how amazing the Beara Penisula check out our video.
We only touched the surface of things to do and see in one day, and you could easily spend two or three days enjoying this part of Ireland.
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Quick Overview of the Beara Penisula
Glengarriff Nature Reserve – Stop one on the Beara Penisula.
Allihies Cooper museum and cafe
Mass Rock on the Beara Peninsula
Uragh Stone Circle and more Beara Penisula Views
Tips for getting the most out of your day
Quick Overview of the Beara Penisula
The Beara Peninsula
The Beara Peninsula is on the southwest coast of Ireland, bordered by the Kenmare River to the north and Bantry Bay to the south. It is part of the Wild Atlantic Way. Two mountain ranges run down its centre: the Caha Mountains and the Slieve Miskish Mountains.
Beara Penisula, part of the Wild Atlantic way
 From Glengarriff to Dursey Island and back to Kenmare, the peninsula stretches 48km (30 miles). The “Ring of Beara” follows the roads for about 148 kilometres (92 mi), circumnavigating the peninsula.
Named after a Spanish princess, Princess Beara. The Beara Peninsula straddles two counties — Cork and Kerry.
Here are a few things that make the Beara Peninsula worth considering for inclusion in an Irish Itinerary.
Beara has one of the highest densities of antiquities in Ireland, with 511 historical sites, some dating to 2000 BC. One is the tallest ogham stone in the world, near Eyeries. Another is the oldest Christian Cross in Ireland at Kilcatherine Church.
The Dursey Island Cable Car is the only cable car in Ireland.
Glengarriff Forest is home to the oldest oak trees in Ireland.
The tallest birch in Ireland is a downy birch growing in Lauragh; it is 25m high.
There is the highest waterfall in Ireland, and the UK is the Mare’s Tail in Adrigole.
Glengarriff Nature Reserve – Stop one on the Beara Penisula.
Waterfall Glengarriff
Glengariff Nature Reserve is part of Lord Bantry’s estate, and the area was handed over to the State in 1955 for forestry purposes and in 1991. The woods were designated as a Nature Reserve, and the woodland is now owned and managed by NPWS.
You can take a gentle amble along the River Walk or climb the steep but rewarding path to Lady Bantry’s Lookout. Most walking paths start at the main parking area, but we choose to head to the short waterfall walk. There is a small carpark at the entrance of the Waterfall Walk and the longer Esknamucky trail.
The Waterfall walk is about 500m long, and it is an easy walk along the Canrooska River, which flows down to meet the main Glengarriff River. At the end of the path is a lovely waterfall, and from the Waterfall, you can return the way you came or via the Esknamucky path.
Walking the Waterfall Trail
We walked up and back via the Waterfall trail, which took us about 30 minutes; taking our time, we enjoyed the fern-lined path and the babbling river.
Driving The Healy Pass – Our Favourite Beara Peninsula Drive
The Healy Pass
Now, the Healy Pass is a fantastic road to drive, but there is so much more than just an extraordinary road. There is so much to learn about this strategic stretch of land.
The Healy Pass is 12.7km (7.89 miles) long, running south-north from Adrigole (County Cork) to Lauragh (County Kerry), and the Summit is over 300m high. Driving the serpentine-like road without stopping will take most people between 20-25 minutes. But like anywhere in Ireland, stopping often will add time and is a given.
Like many roads, The Healy Pass was made during the famine times of the 1840s to get food and help people on the peninsula. County Cork and County Kerry borders meet on the Healy pass. Back in the day when you could not cross counties, those who died and needed to be buried in the other county the coffin would be slid over the boundary line at Flat Rock.
At the Summit, there is a viewing point over the winding road, and the Summit cross is a memorial donated in the 1930s.
Summit Cross – Healy Pass
We only drove part of the pass, headed in from Glengarriff up to the Summit, and then headed back that way so we could continue our exploring of the peninsula and end our day in Kenmare.
Phil loved the drive and even got to do an actual hill descent of the pass. Before we met, Phil used to race historic cars and had done many hill climbs, so he had a ball. If you want to see Phil’s drive, here is the link to the video.
Please do not drive beyond your capabilities.
We spent about 45 mins on the pass, stopping to enjoy the views and the roads.
Allihies Cooper museum and cafe
Cooper Musuem Allihies
Mass Rock on the Beara Peninsula
the only sign at the site
After Cromwell and the English devastated Ireland and banned Catholics from worshipping, Faithful worships gathered in deserted places. In these places, in secret, Priests would hold masses, and one of these desolated places can be found on the Beara Peninsula.
When you pull up on the road, all you see is a sign pointing in a general direction. The day we visited, there was a slightly worn path; it was not worn to dirt, so I second-guessed the path and never made it to the actual monument.
We did take the drone up here as well, and our stop would have been around 25 minutes.
Parking at Mass Rock Beara Peninsula
I got within about 5 minutes from the cross that marks the spot, as I had not researched the path enough. When you head to the Mass Rock, you must ascend to a high place, and the monument is not seen from the sign. The bareness of this place and the sense of determination these worshipers had to get to this rocky, windy, lonely place was inspiring and overwhelming. Stunning views over the Atlantic cap off this stop.
The walk takes about 10 minutes.
Kilcatherine Church
Kilcatherine Church
You will find the Kilcatherine Church is located on Kilcatherine Point. The church ruin of today dates back to the 11th or 12th century, and this church was built over the site of a church dating back to the 7th century. What an absolutely stunning piece of landscape that is just an inspiring place for a church.
One of the oldest crosses in Ireland
Located in the cemetery is a cross that is noted to be one of the oldest crosses in Ireland. The cross is only around 1.5 metres high and has no markings, but it stands at an angle, showing it has stood the test of time.
We spent around 15 mins at this stop, walking through the cemetery and taking in the amazing scenery.
Cuas Pier and Sea Cave
The Cuas Pier Caves is located about 12 km northeast of Eyeries, and the walk to the caves is signposted from Cuas Pier, where you can park your car. It is around a five-minute walk to the caves and includes two styles to climb over.
Going to the caves was a great way to add something a little different to our day and enjoy a moment of bliss as we listened to the water lap over the stones lining the cave’s floor. There is a loop walk you can do from the cave as well if you have the time.
We spent around 20 minutes at this stop. It was a great place to get moving and, as I said, see something a little different.
At the Cuas Sea cave
Uragh Stone Circle and more Beara Penisula Views
Uragh Stone Circle
The Uragh Stone Circle is one of the smallest stone circles in Southwest Ireland. What size might be lacking, it makes up for it with location and views.
Stone circles’ actual purposes are unknown, but there is evidence of many different roles used; many circles were used for rituals, burial spots, or even gathering places. There are around 100 stone circles in Southwest Ireland.
This was the only stop with a fee on it, but we did drive onto a farmer’s land, and I thought the €5 per person was reasonable. Please remember to shut the gate.
We did not expect what we saw; this stop was full of surprises. The Uragh Stone Circle is on the top of a hill that you have to walk up, and it is about 10 minutes to the top. But from the moment you pull up, you are treated to the most beautiful scenery. From the small babbling waterfall to the amazing lake and sheep just wandering around doing their thing, you can’t help but be mesmerised by this stop.
This was our final stop of the day, and we spent around 45 minutes there.
Beautiful cascading water below the Stone Circle
Tips for getting the most out of your Beara Peninsula day
Don’t pack too much into your day; as I said, we only skimmed the surface of things to do, and you will stop to take in the vistas.
Our day started north of the Peninsula in Kinsale and ended in Kenmare, so we chose a route that worked with that itinerary. If you started and ended at the same place, you could possibly drive across the whole Healy Pass and not miss any other stops you wanted to make.
We got to Glengarriff Nature Reserve at about 11 a.m. and ended at our accommodation around 7 p.m. This was a long day, but making it slightly longer meant we did not rush and enjoyed our stop. It also meant we stopped at vantage points along the way because it was all so stunning.
If you like picnics, there are plenty of stops with Picnic tables or places you could put down a rug and enjoy.
We may not have pulled into many, but there are a few little hamlets along the way with shops and cafes to explore and recharge in.
The roads are narrow. It may not be as busy as other loops. Take your time and keep your eyes open for oncoming cars.
Here is a link to our Google Maps route planner. Please note that Carherkeen is where mass rock is.
Our route on the Beara Peninsula
This trip was just a small part of our trip to Ireland. Looking to discover more? Check out our Dublin Blog or Wicklow Mountains blogs.
Have you ever been to the Beara Penisula?
What did we miss you consider a must-see?
If you want to see our day, why not check out our Video?
